Textile Glossary: Basic weaves - Première Vision

Oct 18, 2024

A weave is a method of interlacing warp yarns and weft yarns. There are three basic weaves: plain, twill and satin.

This is achieved by alternately passing even and odd-numbered yarns over and under the weft, reversing at each pick.

Examples of plain-weave textiles: poplin, taffeta, muslin, barathea

There are many variations of plain weaves.

Example: Panama, Oxford

Example: ottoman, grosgrain

Example : Rep

The pattern of the warp yarns passing over or under the weft yarns is offset with each pick, creating an “S” or “Z” diagonal effect.

A twill weave is described by the pattern of the bindings. Thus, a “2/1 twill” means 2 warp yarns pass over the weft for every 1 warp yarn passing under the weft, with the pattern offset on the next pick.

Example: serge, twill, gabardine, whipcord

A satin weave is achieved by spacing the yarn intersection points so they are nearly invisible. We speak of warp-effect satin when the warp yarns dominate the face, and weft satin when they do not.

Satin can be made using any fiber, but the most spectacular effects are achieved with silk and silk-like fibers. Whether for linings or lingerie, satin lends a slipperiness to fabrics, helping them to fall properly. As the face is markedly different from the back, true double-faces can be achieved. For example, satins with a silk warp and cotton weft have a silky exterior, while the skin is in contact with cotton.

Note: “Duchesse satin” has additional yarns in the warp, which strengthens the fabric and gives it a dense, rigid handle.

Starting from these basic weaves, many variations are possible.

Example : plumetis

A note on yarn twisting:

Single wovens include all wovens with one set of warp yarns and one set of weft yarns. There are other textile constructions involving several warp and/or weft yarn systems, which are known as complex wovens.

Weave glossary:Pick : passage of the weft yarn.Over : the weft yarn passes over the warp yarn.Under : the weft yarn passes under the warp yarn.Floating yarn : the weft yarn passes over a few warp yarns.Weave repetition : grid defining the over-under rhythm.